By the second decade of the century, waistlines crept higher or eased into a princess line. Shapes were straighter and more severe with quirky trims. Draped coats and shawls and very inventive silhouettes characterise this period, a major influence was Baskt, whose exotic ballet designs inspired vivid shawls, turbans, prints and colours in the fashions of the day. The First World War dominated the second half of the decade, and women went to work, bringing a restrained and practical influence that reflected the mood of the fashions.