After the extreme corsets, crinolines and bustles of the 19th Century, the beginning of the 20th Century saw the loosening of bodices, slight raising of hemlines and the demise of the bustle, though class difference was still visible in dress. Evening wear trailed on the ground while practical day wear was shorter. The hour glass gave way to the ‘S’ bend. Extravagant decoration became more refined and artistic. Softer fabrics were seen and very large bulky hats balanced the slighter silhouettes. Hair was puffed over rolls like a French loaf in classical chignons.

By the second decade of the century, waistlines crept higher or eased into a princess line. Shapes were straighter and more severe with quirky trims. Draped coats and shawls and very inventive silhouettes characterise this period, a major influence was Baskt, whose exotic ballet designs inspired vivid shawls, turbans, prints and colours in the fashions of the day. The First World War dominated the second half of the decade, and women went to work, bringing a restrained and practical influence that reflected the mood of the fashions.

The war hastened the march of fashion into the 1920s, and more liberated fashions. The Flapper era was named for the bright young things in short skirts, short hair and cloche hats, figures were flattened and boyish, the dresses waistless and easy. The young looked good in them and they expressed the spirit of the age. Ethnic influences and primitive art were popular in patterns and trims, and pleats, uneven hemlines and casually draped coats added to this style revolution.

By the 1930s a sobering mood came with the financial crash and subsequent depression. Women looked more feminine with longer flowing skirts, slinky lines, slightly defined waists and lots of flowery prints. Little flirty hats tilted over permed hair. The great contribution to fashion history was the bias cut with intricate panels and godets influenced to define the line. Hollywood films influenced fashion in the 1930s, however by the end of the decade flared shorter skirts, high top sleeves and bustle effects ushered in the fashions of the war years.

The Second World War sent many women to work and clothes rationing severely restricted the more trivial aspects of fashion. Fabrics were poorer quality and few trims available. Hand work in beading, embroidery and cut work came to the fore. Clothes, by law, were skimpier, but the allure of the figure was shown in the sweetheart necklines, shaped midriffs and peplums. Saucy little dolly hats perched over pompadour hair styles, rolls and longer curls. The end of the decade and the war saw an abrupt about turn in fashion with the New Look – sloping shoulders, pinched waists, long tapered or full shirts in glamour fabrics, and beautiful hats to delight the eye after the austerity years.

In the 1950s the elegance of the New Look transformed into extreme fullness in shorter skirts over rope or net petticoats and tiny waists cinched with shapers or elastic belts. New synthetic fabrics and brilliant oversize prints were prevalent. Small neat hairstyles contrasted with the wide shirts, though some outfits had very narrow pencil skirts. Drapery styles accentuated by bow trims were popular and manufactured laces and trimmings were used with enthusiasm. The film star influence showed in long evening gowns in romantic or rich fabrics draped over accentuated figure shapes.

The 1960s saw a return to elegance with the designer influence and unusual attention to flattering the figure with structural skimming lines in firmer fabric. Intricate shaping and geometric pattern are features of the 60s decade. In response to the neat lines and the new mini shirts, ‘beehive’ hairstyles rose to alarming heights. Pillbox hats creatively trimmed were popular, though many young girls wore long straight hair unadorned. The long display of leg under mini skirts called for fancy pantyhose and zipped or laced boots.